I finished the post below in Ben Gurion Airport in Israel in the very early hours of the morning of November 19th, last Thursday. I hope my evident proclivity for procrastination will not too much delay future posts while on this trip.
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A couple months after moving to Israel, I realized that I am, have always been, and will always be, above all, an American. Since then, even as I have struggled to express myself in Hebrew; as I have felt my face burn when Israelis switch to mangled English after I stumble on one word; as I have tried at once to fit in and to stand out in a society I both love and loathe; I have become more and more a proud American. I’m not talking about political pride, Bush pride, hate France pride, bomb Iraq pride, tattooed red-white-and-blue eagle pride — and most certainly not “Proud to Be an American” pride. (I’m not terribly interested in politics, don’t like Bush without being able to rationally explain why, generally don’t like French people for no good reason, don’t know enough about Iraq to have an opinion, am considering a less cliché America-related tattoo — and as for the song: yes, I love sappy sentiment, and yes, I’m grateful for military actions that protected my country and to the soldiers who were involved in them, but that song sucks. Sorry, flag-bandanna’ed, shotgun totin’ stereotypes. When it comes to patriotic American songs, I prefer Woody Guthrie’s “This Land is Your Land,” commie lyrics and all, especially the version with the lesser-known “private property” verse.)
I’m talking about the landscapes, roads, and towns; the winding mountain lanes, wooded streams, and quiet country houses; the bustling cities and the boarded-up backwaters; the people, from Abraham Lincoln to Charles Manson; everything.
So, I’m dying to finally be back home Thursday for a visit. It’s been more than 16 months since I left the U.S. on July 9, 2008. On account of my low (or rather, “nonexistent”) budget, I’ll probably be in Maryland and DC most of the time, and most of my “tourism” will be done within walking distance of a Metro station. (Ah, how I miss the Metro! — in spite of its horrific track record — pun intended — of late, with the crashing and the dying and the running people over.) That’s alright. I’m ashamed to say how many museums and monuments I never saw in the 22 years I lived just outside DC. As the time before the move dwindled away, I started to realize how I’d been taking it for granted. I used to go to the National Gallery a lot, but aside from that, I haven’t been to any of the museums in years.
I remember my last visit in DC, on the 3rd of July 2008, 6 days before I got on the plane. I walked to the Wheaton metro station, passing along the wooded bike path
and familiar side streets, knowing I wouldn’t see them again for awhile. I came out onto University Boulevard. Probably I considered stopping in at the KFC-Taco Bell, but I kept going. I had another place in mind.
On the train, I shot a video clip with my little digital camera, capturing the graffiti as I glided between Takoma and Fort Totten. Then I sat back and waited a few minutes until the train slid back underground and pulled up to Union Station.
Over the previous few years, when I felt blue or bored, I would take little trips like this one into DC. Union Station was usually my first stop. I’d push through the crowd, wait in line to swipe my card at the turnstile, and start for the food court, always passing a beggar or two and sometimes giving out a dollar. I’d automatically take a look into the small photo and frame store where I’d once bought a few frames. I’d turn the corner and head to the mens room, which was invariably squalid and stinking in spite of the progressing renovation in the food court. Then I’d go to the Chevy Chase Bank ATM and take out a 20. The first time I practiced this routine, I had tried to pay for my food with my bank card, but it wasn’t accepted in the places I wanted to eat.
After ordering up a styrofoam platter of grease in one form or another, I’d find a table and dig in. Sometimes I’d try to read a book, but I always ended up sitting and people-watching until I’d finished eating. I’d try to listen in on conversations and figure out where the tourists were from, and I’d wish I could talk to them and ask them about life in Alabama or Oregon, and what they thought of DC so far. I’d stare at young couples and try to guess if they were locals, tourists, or passing through on an Amtrak train. After awhile they’d stare back at me, less with a look of mutual interest than of suspicion. I’d smile and watch children running between the tables and chairs, hollering and doing whatever pleased them. Occasionally I’d see a group of suits and wonder why they would choose the Union Station food court for their lunch hour. We’re not far from Capitol Hill — could they be lobbyists or aides or staffers or even congressmen? I remember one of them vividly. He was a neat-looking little man, 40s, balding, and (I imagined) manicured. He had purchased a hotdog larger than his forearm, and as he opened his mouth to take the first bite, his small face contorted into a kind of horrific mask, eyes bulging, jaw stretching unnaturally. After the initial disgust, I felt a sort of strange pleasure; a feeling that I had borne witness to a horrific act this prim and proper man had not wanted me to see.
Sometimes after eating I’d walk around upstairs for a bit, go into some shops, a bookstore, stroll past the passages leading to the train platforms. I’d read the schedules up on the screens and fantasize about getting on the next train to Chicago. I had the money — I could probably call in sick at work . . .
One way or another, I’d end up going out the front doors through the massive main hall, past the Christopher Columbus statue at the foot of which at least one beggar was always sleeping or panhandling, cross Massachusetts Avenue and wend my way through the little squares of park between the station and the Capitol, and then cut to the National Gallery.
I started late in the day on my last trip in July ’08, and the museums were getting ready to close by the time I finished my lunch. I approached the Capitol and circled around it, taking a few pictures. After some Capitol cops yelled at me for getting too close to the building (I wasn’t near any kind of public entrance), I continued on my way.

I strolled down the Mall, past the museums. I looked over at the Smithsonian Castle as I passed. I watched the people descending and rising in and out of Smithsonian station. I walked all the way down the Mall and across the Potomac towards Arlington National Cemetery. I stopped for a few moments to contemplate the Washington Monument, and witnessed a perfectly American tableau laid out before me: a group of boys playing baseball on the lawn. I nearly wept.
I sauntered through the grand new WWII Memorial, then wandered off the beaten path and discovered a small, sad-looking WWI Memorial. Lastly, I paid a visit to Abraham Lincoln, his unnaturally huge stone form looming over me, humbling me, I guess.

As I crossed the river the sun began to set, and the Cemetery closed. I rode the metro back home from Arlington National Cemetery station.
I started writing this post weeks ago, but laziness of mind and body kept it from getting done. Now I’m sitting in Ben Gurion airport near Tel Aviv, waiting for my 5:30 AM flight to Amsterdam, where, after a four hour layover, I’ll head back home to Maryland.
Home. I call it that instinctively. “This is your home,” —- tells me, referring to our tiny room in downtown Jerusalem. “I know, I know.” But as the saying goes, home is where the heart is – where is my heart?
With the use of my mother’s car or, when that’s not possible, Montgomery County public transit – or better yet, my own two feet – I’m planning to visit some sites in Maryland itself. I’m not sure how far afield I’ll be able to go, but I’m hoping to retrace some of my old drives. Also, I’ve discovered a wealth of historic sites in Montgomery County, thanks in part to the Montgomery County Historical Society, of whose existence I was unaware until I googled montgomery county historical society. (They have an excellent blog featuring pictures and descriptions of relics from their collections.)
My computer battery is going to die – I can’t find a place to plug in – and I’d like this to get posted before I’m back in Maryland. There is no end to the memories I could ramble on about like an old man talking about the good old days, but that’ll have to wait. I’m hoping I’ll have the will and the energy to write about my experiences on this trip, and maybe I’ll integrate some recollections of past excursions, like my trips to the C&O Canal, the last of which was in May ’08, at a point along the canal I’d never been to before, which I think I got to from River Road, Montgomery County’s longest road, if I’m not mistaken, or one of ‘em at least, which starts in DC at Wisconsin Avenue and continues through the suburbs before narrowing and winding out deep into the country, beyond the city, the suburbs, the mansions, and finally turns into a rutted dirt road on which, at points, two cars couldn’t pass, and ends at White’s Ferry, where one can either boomerang around and head towards Rockville, or cross the Potomac into Loudon County, VA . . . . .